Tomatoes come in a variety of shapes and sizes, each with their own best uses in the kitchen. Choosing the right type will help you get the most from your crop.

• Cherry tomatoes are small and sweet, making them ideal for snacking, salads and lunchboxes.

• Plum tomatoes are oval-shaped with fewer seeds and firm flesh, which makes them well suited to cooking, sauces and preserving.

• Salad tomatoes are the most common type, medium-sized and round, and very versatile for everyday cooking.

• Beefsteak tomatoes are large and often irregular in shape, valued for their juicy flesh and full flavour, and are particularly good sliced for sandwiches and salads.

Tomato plants are also grouped into cordon and bush types.

Cordon type tomatoes (sometimes called indeterminate or vine tomatoes) grow tall and upright, producing a single main stem with sideshoots growing from it.

Bush tomatoes (sometimes called determinate tomatoes) grow into low bushes with many sideshoots.

Bush tomatoes need much less training than cordon types, so they’re a good choice for first-time tomato growers.

Tomatoes grow well in a greenhouse or outside in a sheltered, sunny spot. They appreciate a fertile soil, so dig in compost or well-rotted farmyard manure before planting. If you are short on space, you can even grow tomatoes in pots on a sunny patio or balcony.

Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed, as long as you have a warm, sunny place to start them. A heated greenhouse is ideal, but you can also sow tomato seeds in pots on a sunny windowsill.

Sow tomato seeds indoors from late February to early April. Sow the seeds thinly in seed trays filled with compost, and cover lightly with a 1cm (1/4in) layer of compost.

1. Sow tomato seeds indoors from late February to early April. Sow thinly in seed trays filled with compost and cover lightly with a 1cm (¼in) layer of compost.
2. Water the trays gently and cover with cling film to create a warm, humid environment.
3. Place the trays somewhere warm, such as a heated greenhouse or a sunny windowsill.
4. Once the seeds have germinated, remove the cling film and keep the compost moist.
5. When the seedlings develop two true leaves, carefully lift them out using a dibber, holding each plant by its leaves rather than the stem. Transplant into 9cm pots filled with multipurpose compost and place in a warm, bright position to grow on.
6. When the plants reach around 15cm (6in) tall, they are ready to be planted into their final positions. Wait until all risk of frost has passed before planting outdoors.
7. Harden off the plants over two weeks by placing them outside during the day and bringing them back indoors at night.
8. Plant into pots, grow bags, greenhouse borders or directly into the ground in a sheltered, sunny spot. For cordon varieties, insert stakes at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later.

Water the plants regularly, especially once the fruits start to form, keeping the soil moisture level as consistent as possible. Dry periods followed by overwatering can cause the fruits to take up too much water and split.

Once the fruits start to appear, feed pot-grown plants fortnightly with a high potash tomato food.

Tie cordon tomatoes back to strong support canes as they grow. Inspect the plants regularly and pinch out (remove) the small leafy shoots that appear at the points where the sideshoots join the main stem.

Once the plants have produced five trusses of fruit, pinch out the growing tips of the plants two leaves above the highest truss. This allows the plants to focus all their energy on producing fruit rather than additional foliage.

Bush tomatoes need no pinching out, but very heavily laden stems may need some additional support.

If you are growing tomatoes in a heated greenhouse, they should be ready to harvest towards the end of June. Outdoor-grown tomatoes will be ready later, towards the end of July. To test for ripeness, check the colour and squeeze gently. Ripe tomatoes are slightly tender to the touch but not soft.

There are a few pests and diseases to watch out for when growing tomatoes:

• Blight is a fungal disease that attacks the whole plant. The first signs of blight are chocolate-brown patches on the leaves and fruit. Remove any affected plants immediately and burn or dispose of them (but not on your compost heap). To reduce the risk of blight, plant blight-resistant varieties, and when watering, water the soil around the plant, not the leaves. Greenhouse-grown tomatoes are less prone to blight.
• Aphids suck the sap of young shoots and can stunt plant growth and transmit diseases. Stop infestations early by wiping the bugs off plants with a damp cloth. If you plan to use an insecticide spray, check that it is suitable for use on edible plants, and don’t spray when plants are in flower as this can harm bees. Planting French marigolds near your tomatoes can help, as the scent deters aphids.
• Blossom end rot is caused by calcium deficiency, and results in dark sunken areas at the base of the tomato. It tends to happen when plants are not watered regularly and are not able to take up calcium from the soil. Regular watering will usually resolve the problem, although affected fruits may have to be discarded.